Q&A with commencement speaker Dan Jacobs: ‘I feel like if Madison was a dish, it would be macaroni and cheese.’

Chef Dan Jacobs, co-owner of Milwaukee hotspots Dandan and EsterEv, won over a lot of hearts on Bravo’s “Top Chef” 21st season, where he finished as runner-up.

He’ll share his personal warmth and cooking wisdom when he delivers the keynote address at the University of Wisconsin–Madison’s Winter 2024 Commencement on Sunday, Dec. 15, at the Kohl Center.

In an interview with UW journalism student Serena Wang, Jacobs discussed life in the kitchen, his advice for college students, and why Madison reminds him of baked mac and cheese. Answers have been edited for length.

What inspired you to get into cooking as a career and what do you think is the most fun part of being in the culinary industry?

You know, as a kid growing up, I think my parents both saw me in banking or law or, you know, something more traditional. I remember my first restaurant job was at a cookery in Fish Creek, Wisconsin, and I was a short-line cook. The nighttime cooks did stir fries and had woks, and they did steaks and stuff, and they were really cool. They made money and I remember the first time I burned myself was at the cookery. I remember saying to the nighttime line cook, “Man, I think I have to go to the hospital, this is bad.” And he was like, “Oh, man, it’s not bad.” He passed me a beer because they would drink beer while they were doing service and he’s like, “wrap this around your burn, your hand will be fine.” I was like, “I love this industry.”

What do you think is the most fun part of being in the culinary industry?

I personally think everybody should work in restaurants at some point in life, whether it be a dishwasher or host. I think it teaches you so much about organization, interpersonal relationships, how to treat a guest, how to treat humans, period. I think the best part about this industry is it never gets dull. Every day is a new adventure, and you never stop learning. I was lucky enough to find something that I loved to do at an early age, and I can’t tell you how much that has brought joy to my life as opposed to doing something that I had to do.

After your diagnosis with Kennedy’s Disease, what adjustments have you had to make for you to continue to cook?

I think the biggest change has been moving into more of a mentorship position. Things take a little bit longer. There are certain tasks that I just can’t do. EsterEv lends its own particular challenges as the prep kitchen and the walk-in cooler and storage are all in the basement and so walking up and down stairs is not really something I can do, even without carrying anything but with carrying anything it becomes increasingly difficult. So, it’s an understanding of the team around us willing to pitch in and kind of do things for me. Like, “Hey, can you guys go downstairs,” or I’ll go downstairs, and I’ll pack up a boatload of things I am going to be working with and then I have somebody sherpa it upstairs for me because I can’t.

I think everybody really understands that part of it, like my brain is sharp as a pencil but, sometimes my body just doesn’t want to do things that it’s supposed to do.

I legitimately just do the best I can whenever I can.

What was your go-to meal in college?

Oh man, it’s really funny. We were living in a four-bedroom apartment in Rogers Park, which is the northmost neighborhood in Chicago. Not the nicest neighborhood. It was like 1,000 bucks a month, and we were all broke, and we did peanut butter and tortillas because tortillas were really cheap, and peanut butter was really cheap. Because there was protein. But it was like, at least that’s what was keeping me alive.

What’s your easy, affordable meal that college students can make at home?

Make a soup or something that has got a bunch of different textures and flavors, or even like a really interesting salad. Like you can do ground chicken, ground beef whatever it is, it’s relatively inexpensive and then you’re kind of like seasoning it up with a bunch of condiments and then you just need like lettuce leaves and some herbs and it’s relatively healthy and high in protein, and it’s an easy go-to that you can make a batch of it.  Burger tacos, same thing. You can make a batch of this stuff and now you’re eating for a couple of days.

If you were to recommend a few essential ingredients for college students to keep on hand, what would they be?

I think investing in a nice peppermill is not a bad idea. I feel that ground pepper is great if you use it right away but then give it like a week and it’s just like it’s nothing. So invest in it, invest in a pepper mill, you know that is kind of like an easy one.

There are three things that my mom always put in everything, and I feel that’s always kind of what we still have in our house at all points — Worcestershire sauce, Lawry’s Seasoned Salt and soy sauce.

If you were to make a dish that represents the University of Wisconsin–Madison, what would it be? 

All right, let’s do something with cheese. I feel like there’s something there. I always feel like Madison is so comfortable and like home. I don’t live there; I’ve never lived there, but it’s always felt very home like it’s always felt very welcoming. I feel like if Madison was a dish, it would be macaroni and cheese. Like baked macaroni and cheese made from scratch, with really good cheese, really saucy and some nice breadcrumbs on top, baked in the oven. Just comforting, warm and welcoming.

What do you want graduates to take away from your speech?

I think graduating from college gives you such a leg up on so many other people. It gives you so much of an opportunity and a foot in the door. There are so many people who don’t have the opportunity that these graduating students do.

The number one thing that I hope they take away is to use their power for good. Be empathetic. Help people out that can’t help themselves. Be those forces of change that make Wisconsin better, that don’t create division, that create togetherness and empathy. I think that’s something that I really hope they walk away with.